Where do i begin.... We've now been in French Polynesia one whole
year, over which period i've accomplished to learn two Polynesian
words, "IAORANA & MAURURU" (Hello & thank-you) ... Joking apart..
We've been extremely grateful for the freedom we've had to travel
extensively through the hundreds islands & atoll, whilst being allowed
to absorb into the many unique culture's within FP which covers some
5'500,000 square kilometers across the South Pacific, roughly covering
an area the size of Europe.
Over the year, We've begun to understand some of the complexities,
fear's & hope's that define the everyday life for the local
Polynesian's, simply by turning up on some remote beach, some tiny
isolated village or some distant atoll, we've always been welcomed &
allowed to immersed ourselves in the spectrum of culture the different
island groups offer, we're forever amazed how giving the polynesian
people really are, especially when you realize how foreign cultures
have abused their openness over recent history, I can honestly say
that I'm going to be very very sad to leave.
That said.... French Polynesia is suffering dramatically under the
world economic depression, tourism appears to of failed & we've
witnessed hotels have been closing at first hand, This along with the
every changing local governments has definitely had an affect on the
pride in it's people's. & simply from speaking to people from island
to island... I can honestly say the Polynesian people have lost a
little faith in a government that they should be looked for guidance,
especially whilst under the foreign rule, So How did this come about &
what is it's affect on the present day economy..
We'll " Apparently" it started when France wanted to test nuclear
bombs out here, the local community was enraged & ( i hear) every-
night the atoll's & islands would burn tires on the beaches & ports in
a desperate attempt to draw attention of the world media, there was an
air of civil unrest... I guess the French, not wishing for any world
attention offered the Polynesian government a deal, a deal that
would hopefully suppress the anger of a nation..... Free Health care,
Free Education, Tax free country, amongst other financial
incentives.. & from what i see & hear... It was accepted .. But i
feel they might of sold a little "pride" too & now its people are in
a state of complacence.. a sort of George Orwell "under the growing
chestnut tree, I sold you & you sold me" .. In order to re coup some
of the expenses France subsides FP each year, there is a 100-percent
tax on alcohol- food, restaurants-hotels .. & thus tourism can't
compete against Hawaii, west indies, Maldives, Seychelles.. & thus the
economy is in trouble.
Hopefully things will change, hopefully there realize that Cosco isn't
the way to market this unique paradise on earth.. who knows..?
So that said... we'd decide to return to to california, the return
trip will take us back through the society islands, then North up
through the Tuamatu's atoll's then back to the Marquesas, some 1'500
miles before crossing the equator at around 140' hoping that the ITZ
zone is at it's thinest, before a further 2000 miles to Hawaii..
crossing at around 140" s should give me enough easting to "reach" up
to Hawaii before heading further north to fins the westerly winds to
take us to canada, then follow the currents down to California.. Why
such a epic return,,simply because of the predominate SE & NE trade
winds that brought us here...
So the last couple of months has been..Ummm difficult, between a
visit from Heather a very close friend of Veronica's (a shining spirit
that has helped us through -out our journey) who's picked up our mail
& parts etc, Heather first 3 days we're adventurous as we sailed with
Bora Bora reef's.. But unfortunately principally due to my bad
judgment & a need to catch the NW that had spun from a passing storm
back to Tahiti... well.. Heather found the journey uncomfortable &
motion sickness took hold of her, So unfortunately she disembarked in
Moorea, literally within a couple of days from Heather parting, Penny
my mother... arrived.. But she'd developed 3x DVT thrombosis during
her 18 hour flight, So rather that our planned crossing with penny to
the Tautotu islands.. we spent the next 2 weeks with various doctors,
specialists, X-rays scan, & Penny required injection daily.. We both
felt incredibly sad that she'd traveled to far, but couldn't enjoy the
islands in her condition, so we anchored up outside her hotel & helped
her best we could..... she appeared very responsive to the daily
injections & blood test's & as such after just two weeks of treatment,
she' thankfully been given the all clear to flight home under the
doctors supervision & continuing the treatment.. so we've now trying
to catch-up & make the safe window of May crossing the equator...
Unfortunately we've hit a big depression & are now anchored up in
Rangaroa.. hoping for it to pass...
