Saturday, May 23, 2009

Fakarava to Tahiti




We planed to use Fakarava's remote southern pass as a springboard to
head out of the atoll towards Tahiti. However, as my SSB is now
somewhere between California & Seattle (on route back to the service
dept at I-com) combined with our remote location, "I thought".... I
try to gather weather information from a sailing yacht we passed
earlier that day, ... So via channel 16 on my VHS radio, I hailed "
sailing vessel H...... .H..... this is the sailing vessel Apple! do
you read me?" after making the initial contact & explaining the
whole SSB scenario ..blah, blah... I said i was looking to make the
255 mile passage Tahtit the following morning... could they kindly
check the weather on their SSB for me....?

Well... within 10 minutes they hailed be back on the VHS with the
following.... Winds ESE 10-12 knots, swell SE 1.5 meter..
ummmm Sounded like the trade winds are building back.. Which is great
news! ESE would be the perfect wind direction for broad reach SW
232 degree M heading & with only 10 knots I'll leave the massive 170
Genoa (front sail) up! ...

Cut to: The following morning, 9 am in perfect sync with the slack
water, we exited the atoll... ( which was very hard to do, because
"Fakarava" is a million words about being beautiful) ... & to make
things worse, the weather outside the atoll was a little
disappointing.. The supposed ESE winds was more like pure south !!..
& after cleared the Lee of the island ( sheltered side).. the South
wind's quickly clocked to become South-West (straight on our nose) &
rapidly began climbing from 10 knots to 22 knots... & where was the
light swell's? we had a confused waves from the NE (confused is a
"real" term used for lumpy sea's) .. becoming increasingly darker &
darker... until almost completely black .... ... Yes, yes, yes ..I
know what you're going to ask! ... Where do the fish hide in storms?
Ummmm.. Good question? The clouds had become Soooo heavy, that if
they swapped places with the Ocean.... Nobody would ever know!!!!


And that's exactly what they did.....!! .... Because suddenly the
Ocean above!! Started falling..... Each droplet of rain was like a
perfectly formed transparent needle, each needle retained a
microscopic brain... a brain focused with pure masochistic
determination to create the maximum impact on my skin.. . It rapidly
became too painful even to open my eyes.. . Veronica & Apple (dog)
took refuge in the saloon (which wasn't easy as the yacht was being
banged around) i though.. we thought.... this can't it get any
worse... because there wasn't any mention of this sort of weather
conditions in the "Jeanneau yacht broacher" & I'm sure the yacht
broker would of mentioned it ?? ....Ummmmm? ... & suddenly... right
on queue, THE MOTHER OF ALL SQUALL'S appeared .. so the now once SW 22
knots, instantly became 30-40 knots NE-ENE-SW-ESE.. every direction
all at once.!!! .. Sooo the combination of constant crashing waves &
squall's forced "Apple" into a "Jibe" (sudden 90 degree turn)
fortunately i'd had time to set a preventer on departure, which saved
the boom from crashing over & possibly de-masting her...

Anyway the yacht is classed — blue water "A" rated. So in theory she
can can take anything up to a hurricane.. But we... Veronica, Myself &
apple (dog) all had enough of battling into this SW winds.... "This
picture isn't what i'd bought into...." We simply wanted MORE white
beaches & clear blue sky's, smiling happy people, .... So I spun the
yacht round & headed straight back to "Fakarava" ... which we reached
with in just 2 hours with our now following 22 knots of winds... I
didn't even check the tide chart's, I'd rather hit a reef that stay
exposed to that storm... We just sailed straight into the pass & into
shelter.... Ahhhhhhh... what a cool sanctuary.. later that night we
were joined in our secluded anchorage by a 38ft catamaran
( Exactly the same model as Rick's cat in Mexico) which had been de-
masted, they must have cut-away the whole mast & rigging in that
storm.. Then motored into Fakarava..... That's anther story from
another yacht.... However the young family aboard all seemed in fine
shape & happy to find refuge within the atoll.....

"Never Again"...will I trust weather from a strange yacht..... After
acquiring inter-net in the north of the atoll.. I found out that a
second front had indeed moved through.. The people who given me
weather clearly hadn't really studied it...

So now.... Fully up-dated. We waited 3 more days for the front to
dissipate . Leaving us with the warm trade winds ESE to sweep us out
of the northern pass .... What a wonderful 2 days passage to Tahiti.
bathed in a warm breeze, guided by the "southern cross" above, we
enjoyed an amazing passage....

Haaa......Tahiti.. Famous through-out the world for the romantic
charms of HMS Bounty.... Also the french painter Paul Gauguin live
here between 1891 & 1903 , were presently moored at the Tahiti yacht
club in Papeete..... & looking forward to the return of my SSB on
monday!! Then after resting, re stocking..... We're going to explore
the "Societies" < Tahiti, Moorea, Raiatea, Bora Bora ...

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

heading..to Tamakohua inside Fakarava..

So.. After about 2 hours of sailing from Ohavana, heading SW inside
Fakarava towards the southern pass of Tamakohua, we sighted a very
beautiful, very remote, luxury hotel built on stilt's over a groomed
white coral beach ...Ummmmm dreamy... a landscaped beach!!
aaaaahhhh...... we could clearly see an infinity of white cotton
hammocks, call us in.... With an empty mooring buoy ... shouting ..
MMMMIKE , VERONICA!! over here..!!. come swing on meee!!.... . Beyond
was a fluttering of Sunfish sailing dinghy's, their tasteful blue & white sails stood silhouetted against the perfect straight palm
tree's, bathed in the warm 10 knots of breeze from NE ... Simply too
opulent to pass by.... Was that a small restaurant in the distance?
Ummmm probably serving ....mmmmmmm ............ This looked
definitely like the ultimate commercial for the Tuamotu Islands...

Well,....... The closer we got .. The more beautiful it looked, but
the more deserted it looked ? Veronica & Apple (dog) both looked at me with a slight edge of concerned.... I reassured them both, by
suggesting that this was probably a 5 star hotel & thus had very few
guest's ...... due to the current economic recession? Um? ... then let
my imagination free with what the restaurant might be serving tonight...

Cut to: Whilst attaching "Apple" (yacht) to the mooring bouy.. I
expected to see.. ummmm Perhaps .."one living person".. Maybe an
occasional beach guard? Or perhaps a polynesian waiter or maybe the
hotel masseur waving at us...! , maybe even the hotel manager? ... . but nobody... empty... "sounds familiar" ... emptiness...strange? ..
Dare I say..."no sign of life" ..AGAIN!! ....

So we simply lowered the tender ( small dinghy) went ashore. "Did i
mention the beach was landscaped?" or exactly how soft the white
fluffy towels were?... Or how infinitely fine the sand grains felt
between our toes.?.... Anyway... to cut a long story short.. The
beach was completely deserted, the restaurant empty... confused?...
You will be...!! So After an hour of swimming, wallowing in fresh
fluffy towel's, swing in hammocks.... We finally I saw a human
life... HUMAN LIFE... people!!! In the form of a.... ... Speed boat
full of european tourists, all holding big camera's with massive
telescopic lenses... all focusing at Veronica, Apple ( dog) & Me? As
we simply sat on our now private hotel beach.... Looking very
confused back at this strange gaggle of tourists in a little speed
boat..?.. suddenly after 10 minutes of pointing & picture
taking..... They simply sped off into the distance.... EVEN
STRANGER??? ? Things were getting a little weird? Suddenly a
gardener appears from behind a palm tree... he appears so focused on
delicately grooming each grain of sand on the beach, sooo very
polite, as he delicately cleaned around our/his towels.. Not wanting
to disturb our sun bathing.....

Anyways, he being the only accessible life form.. I was determined to
find out what time the restaurant staff would return.....?
Well, I guess after a little translation from Veronica.. Well, I
guess...... I/we suddenly realized.. Ummmmm....We became had
unexpected guest's of the French senates private house.. He was
luckily away, occupying his seat in Senate in Paris.. I guess the
gardener thought we were supposed to be there as the yacht ...sort of
fitted the location, he said he's arrange for the cook to come down
shortly .. & he simply carried on with his cleaning business, we.....
well we decided not to push our luck any further.. So i told the
gardener, we'd be eating on board "Apple" tonight...& return to our
yacht ASAP before leave very early the following morning..